It is ironic that this haven of tranquility originated as a military reserve. This was back in the 1850s when tension existed between Great Britain's Canadian colonies and the mighty United States. The peninsula of land thrusting into Burrard Inlet seemed a perfect place to thwart the enemy. Thankfully, tensions subsided and, in 1886 when Vancouver, then named Granville, was incorporated, the inaugural city council showed remarkable foresight by turning First Narrows Military Reserve into Stanley Park.

The quintessential handshake with both Vancouver and Stanley Park is to walk the seawall that rims the finger-shaped park. It's a microcosmic view of what life is like in this West Coast city. You'll be part of a parade - strolling men and women who meet and chat, ardent joggers, lovers holding hands, mothers walking or jogging with young ones in strollers, cyclists, roller bladers and people like you, enjoying being in the Vancouver scene. For a peaceful stroll, go on a weekday morning; for action, walk it on the weekend. Here's some highlights.

The best place to start is the Georgia Street park entrance. As you begin you are facing the cityscape on your right back dropped by yachts in the classy marina in front of the Rowing Club. Soon you pass Deadman's Island, originally a Salish burial ground, then the Nine O'clock gun which, since 1894, is fired nightly at 9 pm (now it is done electronically).

At Lower Brockton Oval you can pose for pictures in front of totem poles that represent a variety of different BC nations. Another Kodak moment follows as Lions Gate Bridge comes into view. Art buffs will appreciate the 'Girl in a Wetsuit' statue on the shoreline as well as the faded but lovely figurehead of the Empress of Japan. Lumberman's Arch, a huge Douglas Fir made into a monument to honour loggers in the province in 1952, comes into view on your left. (The concession stand nearby is the place for fish and chips).

Further along is Prospect Point, it's a bit of a steep path if you wish to see one of the city's best views. (There is a road that encircles the park and leads to this point.) Soon you're beside Siwash rock that, native legend tells us is an immortalized young father. This route leads to several of the city's finest beaches. Near Third Beach, is one of Stanley Park's best kept secrets. Tucked down a trail near the Hollow Tree, is the National Geographic Tree, a towering - over 30 metres high - red cedar which the famous Society believes to be the largest of its kind in the world. A good ending for a seawall walk is English Bay a sweeping beach in the West End, a lovely downtown neighbourhood.

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